TREND: IMPROVING / ONGOING / DETERIORATING
Observations currently indicate that the windward aspects are very hard and wind scoured to the extent that it would seem everything has been blown onto the leeward aspects. As made obvious by the uncharacteristic appearance of those aspects now showing huge wind loading, in places as much as 4m deep. This hard pack, rime and ice is heightened by a cycle of freeze / thaw had started prior to this next deposition (Friday).
Blizzard Warning Current.
Things are about to get wild. Particularly up high with 70km+ wind and warm wet (North Easterly) prefrontal turning to blizzard and then colder dryer conditions with the wind swinging south west and ending as south easterly by Sunday. 270˚ wind radius in 62hrs. A good thing as this will more evenly distribute the new snow by comparison to the ferocious westerlies we've suffered lately.
The existing bed surface is cold and hard, unlikely to bond well to the new precip particularly up high. Steep Wind loaded aspects lee to the north and west should be avoided from Saturday. It's likely that we will again see graupel caught and or some 'toffee crusts' in the new snowpack due to a warmer 'bubble' (Friday afternoon) following the main front.
Expected snowfall of 20cm will see 60cm+ deposited in aspects lee to the North and West. Conservative terrain choices advised on steep (30˚+) aspects lee to the North and West from Saturday.
With a 2m snowpack (4m on windloaded aspects) we are urging people to be careful and stay well clear of the cornices. The stability of these features has improved over this last week, however with rapid warming or rain they will again become prone to collapse.
Creeks and Gullys
Caution required with creek crossings as transported snow from angles North to South and East have created windlips that encircle and thinly conceal deep wider creek holes.
The information provided here deviates from the standard reporting format that we apply to the travel advisory. It sometimes shows recent field obs results and images. It is pitched at participants looking for more detail.
Stanley slide, courtesy of a ski cut by @akroenert we believe. Jake Iskov